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Elk & Bighorn Sheep feeding in Yakima valley

February 08, 2016  •  Leave a Comment

Bighorn SheepSheep & Elk feeding in Yakima valley

The Oak Creek Wildlife Area in Yakima valley is fun to visit in winter months. This place is managed by the State of Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife. A long fence was constructed in the valley to prevent Elk and Bighorn sheep entering the city in winter. When there is snow in the mountains, the wild animals come down to the valley looking for food. The fence prevent them from finding food in winter, so the wildlife preserve had to feeding them in winter, it is a strange practice but I have observed over six hundred Elks gathered in one single place to eat the food provided by the wild life preserve. There is also several hundred Bighorn sheep in a nearby place, next to the Elk feeding station . When the snowfall starts, the animals come down to the feeding station and they hang around in that place until it warm up in February or March. Then they go back to the mountains. The wildlife preserve also provides a ride in the feeding truck so people can see the animals up close from the truck. You need to call them in advance to reserve a  seat for the ride. They do that during the feeding time every day. The ride timings and contact phone numbers are published on their website. The Visitor Center at the Oak Creek Headquarters is located 2 miles west of the junction of Highways 12 and 410 on Highway 12, approximately 20 miles west of Yakima.

 

I visited this place couple of times in the past, and it was snowing heavily when I could photograph the animals during the truck ride. It was a unique experience to see the animals while the snow was falling. I had trouble taking pictures because I wasn't able to focus correctly due to the heavy snow flakes coming down. I managed to take a few shots by locking the focus using the back button in my camera. I mostly used a 70-200 lens to photograph the animals, and couple of wide shots with a 24-70 lens. If you plan to go and need some information like directions or additional information regarding photographing this place, you can post a message at the bottom of this page, or use the  Contact  link  to send me an e-mail.

 

Exposure : 200mm, ISO 100,  1/320 sec, F4

 

Link to the photo gallery : http://www.muraleephotos.com/p628051539

 

Back button focus, focus locking.

 


Snow Geese in Skagit valley

February 01, 2016  •  Leave a Comment

A flock of Snow GeeseSnow Geese in Skagit valley
 

The state of WA  has several locations in the north west where birds migrate in winter.  When it becomes too cold in Canada, Alaska and Siberia, birds fly down to WA to hang around for three of four months starting end of November. Snow geese is the most populous one in this region. They come in flocks of tens of thousands and stay in Skagit valley from November till February or even March if it is still not warm enough. If you want to see a flock of Snow Geese, take exit 221  from I-5, and drive west on Fir island road, if you are driving up from Seattle. Then, go west (left from Fir Island road) on Rawlins road. You will hit dead end and you can see water from that point. Snow geese sleep on back waters near Fir Island in the night. If you reach there an hour before the sunrise, you can hear the noise of birds from the water. They take off from water during sunrise and fly out of water, and land in some farm land  nearby looking for feeding.  The taking off and landing of  flocks of Snow geese is an interesting scene to watch.  The flock in this picture was shot on Fir Island road, just 2 miles west of I-5. There several other kind of birds migrate to this area too.
 

I mostly used a 70-200 mm lens to photograph Snow geese. You may not be able to get close to a flock that is feeding on a farm, so this focal length is good enough. If you watch the taking off of Geese during the sunrise, a wide angle lens will help to get wide landscape shots with birds and sunrise in the frame. A shutter speed of 1/1250 second was used so that I could get sharp picture of birds that are in flight. An aperture of F8 helped getting enough depth of field, so more of the frame is sharp. I struggled to get the correct white balance in this image. I generally use one of the white balance presets in the camera menu, like cloudy, direct sun, shade, tungsten etc. This image was shot in auto white balance mode and the color temperature  was 6350 Kelvin  in the image, and that looked more warm for me. So I reduced the color temperature during post processing until I got the correct colors in the image, at 4440 Kelvin. I remember, the grass was green, and birds have red skin on their legs, and the feather was white. So, I reduced the color temperature slowly until I felt I got the colors that I saw in the scene.  This is one of the best advantages  of shooting in RAW format, you can adjust the white balance, the RAW file contains maximum amount of dynamic range. I use a simple rule when adjusting the white balance by adjusting the color temperature - white should be white and Red, Green & Blue should look Red, Green and Blue. This is a rule that can be used as a baseline, but if you are editing an image of scenes like Sunset or Sunrise, it is a different story. I want to have warmer colors in the sunset scene, so I adjust the white balance accordingly, I will talk more about it when I post a Sunset shot, another time. 
 

Exposure : 70 mm, ISO 800, 1/1250 second, F8
 

Link to the photo  gallery : http://www.muraleephotos.com/p875727094

 

Telephoto lens for Snow geese, white balance , high shutter speed for birds in flight.
 


Palouse in winter

January 25, 2016  •  Leave a Comment

Palouse in winterPalouse in winter

The Bing.com home page showcased a photo from Palouse once, and that encouraged me to click at the hot spots on the page to learn more about the beautiful landscape in Eastern Washington. It is a large area of around four hundred square miles of rolling hills with mostly wheat fields and also other crops like mustard and other vegetables. I have been visiting this place for the past five years at least once in every summer.  This place is around five hour drive from Seattle. Steptoe Butte state park is one of the most interesting places in this region, you can drive up to the Butte to see sunrise or sunset, and also 360 degree view of the region to see the rolling hills of Palouse. The Palouse waterfall is the State Waterfall of WA and it is also another interesting place to visit on the way to Eastern Washington. You can find a hotel in Colfax or Pullman to stay overnight to spend the whole weekend there. It is a beautiful location to enjoy  weekend scenic ride, but it is not at all crowded by tourists. You will find photographers in the prime locations on almost every day. It is fun to visit this place in early summer when the crops are growing, and the rolling hills will be in lush green color, this is probably the time when more people visit this region.  I also love to visit this place during the end of summer when the wheat is ready for harvest, and they will be in gold color. It is a scene to see. I visited this place in winter this year for the first time, a couple of weeks ago and I realized I missed amazing views in the past years. The rolling hills have more gorgeous look in winter, after some snow falls on the ground. You can find map of 'Palouse scenic byway' online, and also do not forget to visit the  Wagon wheel fence at the Dahmen Barn in Uniontown. 

 

Let me talk a little bit about the way I captured this picture. I drive around in this region and stop when I see some nice landscape, then I grab my camera and take a picture. I use tripod and do more careful arrangements in summer, but it is too cold here in winter, so it is easier to shoot the image in a couple of minutes and get back into the car. In this condition, I generally set ISO to 400, and aperture to F8 to get enough depth of field and sharpness in the image, then shot hand holding the camera, adjusting the shutter speed to get the correct exposure. The image above is mostly white, so if I set the camera to an auto mode like aperture priority mode, then  the resulting image is going to be dark mostly, underexposed. When there is more white elements in the frame, camera's light meter is going to almost fail to calculate the exposure correctly, measuring for the white and gray. So we need to add 1-3 EV of exposure to get the correct exposure.  I used to think I could shoot in manual exposure, so I get a better image. But wait, it is the same sensor that is doing the light metering, so weather in Auto mode, or Manual mode, the exposure calculated by the camera is going to be the same. So, take a picture, look at the preview in the LCD and adjust the exposure by adding +1-3 stops more of light. You can add exposure compensation in auto mode, or adjust shutter speed in manual mode. I had to add 2 stops of exposure in the image above. I used matrix metering in this case, there are some situations where spot metering helps to find the correct exposure in similar situations, we will discuss that some other time.  Steptoe Butte state park is one of my favorite location to spend time during the sunset and sunrise, so I can photograph the rolling hills under the golden light. A telephoto lens will help to zoom into small areas and get more features of the landscape in the images. I prefer to use 200 mm or  higher focal length for the rolling hills, and a wide angle like 24-70 for wide shots. 

 

Exposure : ISO 400, 1/160 second, F8

 

Exposing for snow, telephoto lens for rolling hills..

 


Snoqualmie falls

January 18, 2016  •  Leave a Comment

Snoqualmie falls Snoqualmie falls, when the Snoqualmie river is flooded.

Snoqualmie falls is one of the beautiful waterfalls in Washington state. It is one of the attractions in the list of must-to-do things if you are new to Seattle or visiting. It is 45 minutes’ drive from downtown Seattle. If you ask the GPS, it will guide you through I-90, but the Fallcity Road ( WA 202 ) from Redmond to Fallcity offer better views along the way. I have been to this waterfall several times in the past few years, but I chose two occasions more interesting to visit compared to others 1) when the Snoqualmie river is flooded caused by heavy rain, there is lot more water than in the other seasons, so it is lot more interesting 2) when  it is very cold in winter, when the temperature drops below 20F. The walls will have build-up of ice around the fall, and that gives another beautiful scene. The view from the observation deck on 202 is very nice, but you can also hike down to the base, it is a fun hike down to the river to see the falls from the lower basin, weather permits. It will be slippery if it is raining or snowing, so just be careful. You could also drive down to the lower parking lot, through the SE Fish Hatchery Road, you will find it  a couple of miles west of the falls. 

I prefer to shoot waterfalls either in the evening after the sunset, or in the morning before the sunrise. The light will be soft and not strong, so getting a slow shutter speed is easy at those times. Slow shutter gives a cotton candy feeling for the water, it is  pleasing for the eyes, and it implies motion too.  I ended up here in the afternoon when the light was bright, but it was cloudy and drizzling, so the light was soft enough. I had to use a solid ND filter to step down to 2.5 seconds shutter speed, and I used an aperture of F13 to get front to back sharpness in the frame.  If I were able to shoot this image in the evening or morning when the light is not bright, I could just use a circular polarizer filter instead of ND filter. It will help remove any  glare caused by water, it will produce higher saturation of colors, it can help remove any un-wanted reflections, and also allows to lose 1.5 to 2 stops of light, to achieve a slow shutter.  It is good to have slow shutter speed, but make sure not to make the water too soft, it may not be interesting all the time. We need silky feeling in the water, but we also need to keep some features in the flowing water, so we need to find that right shutter speed to get that perfect cotton candy feeling (somewhere between 0.5 second to 3 seconds) .  The camera was on tripod and it was set to the base ISO 100.

Exposure : ISO 100, 2.5 seconds, F13


Notes from 'behind the lens' workshop

October 25, 2015  •  Leave a Comment


 


 

Exposure triangle
 

  • Aperture, Shutter Speed, ISO
     
  • Light meter reads the values and calculate the correct exposure.
     
  • Dynamic range –camera can see 6-8 stops of light, eyes can see 16
     
  • Auto mode
     
  • Aperture priority –story telling, subject isolation , low light, long exposure
     
  • Shutter priority –freeze motion, panning, imply motion
     


 

Light, exposure
 

  • At least six possible exposures in any situation
     
  • Light -soft light, golden light, day light, flash light
     
  • One F-stop at a time
     
  • F2.8, F4, F5.6, F8, F11, F16, F22
     
  • F2.8 at 1/1000 is same exposure as F4 at 1/500 sec
     
  • Learn manual exposure mode
     


 

Aperture
 

  • Find the one best aperture
     
  • Depth of field, shallow to wide
     
  • Wide aperture in low light
     
  • Wide aperture to isolate subject
     
  • Story telling apertures, to get front to back sharpness
     
  • F8 , F11 . . . . sharpest, leaves on the floor, portrait against a wall etc.
     
  • Exercise - photograph a face with different apertures, to show shallow background and depth field.
     


 

Shutter speed
 

  • Find the one best shutter speed
     
  • Sunny 16 rule
     
  • Moon 11 rule
     
  • Freeze motion, (People=1/200,sports = 1/500, wild life 1/1000 –1/2000, rain 1/50 for rain )
     
  • Long exposure ( Eg : traffic trails, moving light, waterfall, star trails, ND filter)
     
  • Panning ( freeze motion with panning @ 1/30 sec )
     
  • Exercise - Shoot water fall at different shutter speeds, same exposure, different result. Use shutter speeds of 1/200 second, 1/10 second and 1 second. You can photograph a waterfall, or any small stream of water, or even water  flowing from a tap to see the same experience.   
     
  • Exercise - Shoot ferry’s wheel at different shutter speeds, same exposure, different result (this one needs traveling to Seattle downtow2n waterfront, of course). If you can find any device with a rotating wheel in it, you can do similar experiment. A wall clock or a desk alarm clock with a seconds needle also will work as subject here.
     


 

ISO
 

  • Light sensitivity of the sensor
     
  • Keep at lowest ISO possible to avoid noise.
     
  • Long exposure noise reduction
     
  • Noise reduction using tools like Nik Define, Lightroom
     
  • Exercise - Photograph the front page of a magazine in different ISO modes, to show increase in noise as we increase the ISO. Use any magazine or cover page of a book.
     


 

White balance
 

  • Color balance
     
  • Color temperature
     


 

Un-Sharp images –common causes
 

  • Avoid camera shake
     
  • shutter speed1/mm , reciprocal rule
     
  • Image stabilization or hold camera steady
     
  • Use a tripod
     
  • Motion blur due to movement of subject
     
  • Use shutter priority mode ,
     
  • People = 1/200, sports = 1/500, wild life 1/1000 –1/2000
     
  • Shallow depth of field can cause blurry photo
     
  • Use shallow aperture , like F8 or shallower
     
  • Missed focus
     
  • Use single focus point
     
  • Use a shallow f-stop
     
  • Air quality
     
  • Long focal length means hazy and humid if subject is far away
     
  • Go closer to subject if possible
     


 

How to get sharp images
 

  • Use tripod
     
  • Use cable release or remote or timer
     
  • Lock mirror
     
  • Use fast enough shutter speed
     
  • Switch off Vibration reduction / Image stabilization while on tripod
     
  • Shoot at Lens’s sharpest aperture , 2 stops from widest
     
  • Avoid high ISO if possible
     
  • Shoot in burst mode, chance that one will be sharp
     
  • Zoom in to check sharpness
     
  • Use a fast memory card
     


 


 

Portraits / people / outside / Inside
 

Some technical stuff
 

  • Chose background . .. don’t want it to be busy
     
  • Position camera at eye level, lower or raise the camera
     
  • Avoid harsh sun light .. look for shade, or cloudy day
     
  • Use a diffuser, flash bender or Gary Fong
     
  • Built-in flash to fill shadows, make sure to ON flash (15 ft)
     
  • Use flash to darken or lighten the background of the subject
     
  • Use a flash to freeze motion in portraits
     
  • Flash not required always
     
  • Telephoto zoom for portraits ( 100mm or close )
     
  • F2.8 -> nice bokeh,f11-> more background visible
     
  • Shoot in portrait orientation if one person
     


 

How you get the shot
 

  • What lens to use, what aperture to use etc. are easy technical details to find
     
  • Connect with the subject, make a relation with the subject, and capture the moments
     
  • Watch the subject through the lens, slow down, stay calm and concentrate ( Eg: dancer, kid, runner )
     
  • Ask your subject to help you learn to become a better photographer
     
  • Don’t ask subject to smile, make them smile
     


 

Some composition rules
 

  • Obey the rule of thirds
     
  • No implanting of subject, no horns behind the head
     
  • Make sure to fix hair, ask model
     
  • Check where to cut hands, Eg : don’t show back of subjects hand
     
  • Don’t cut limbs
     
  • Don’t chop forehead
     
  • Focus in the dominant eye
     
  • Keep both eyes focused
     
  • Compose tight, more appealing
     
  • Chin down, always
     
  • Get couples really close
     
  • Make sure to focus the girl correctly, you can ignore the guy
     


 

Some special situations
 

  • How to shoot a sunset portrait
     
  • Better portraits with a reflector
     
  • For group shots, don’t use rows, use clutters, and leave no space between people
     

Photographing stage performance
 

  • No flash absolutely, there is enough light on the stage to give you good images
     
  • You want to capture the color and vibrance of the stage lights
     
  • You want to capture the moments as you see on the stage
     
  • Use a high ISO to give you 1/125 shutter speed at a moderate aperture
     
  • Lights constantly change, shooting a performance on stage is really challenging
     
  • Use the lens with the widest aperture you have, like an F2.8 lens
     
  • Use a noise reduction software, like Nik Define
     
  • If sitting close to stage, you will need both a wide angle lens and a telephoto
     
  • Use a monopod if sitting in the same place, so you can relax your hands
     
  • Watch the stage through the lens always, and click when the moment happens
     
  • Shoot in burst mode when important moments happen on stage, so u don’t miss a thing
     
  • Aperture priority, spot metering
     


 

Creating a Panorama image
 

  • Use a tripod
     
  • Shoot vertical
     
  • White balance –use one of the presets
     
  • Use manual exposure
     
  • Use manual focus –focus at one place in the center of the scene, then switch lens to manual focus
     
  • Overlap by 25-40 %
     
  • Shoot quickly, the scene may change due to moving clouds
     
  • Use cable release (eg. $6 Velo ) to avoid camera shake
     
  • Use Photoshop, Lightroom, or ICE to stich the panorama
     
  • If you use Photoshop, you can hand hold camera and shoot
     


 

Rules of composition
 

  • Rule of thirds
     
  • Leading lines
     
  • Diagonals
     
  • Framing –use natural frames like windows and doors
     
  • Find a contrast between subject and background
     
  • Fill the frame
     
  • Center the dominant eye
     
  • Patterns and repetition
     
  • Symmetrical balance
     

                                                 
 

                                                      ------end---------
 


 

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